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| March 2007 issue of PRINTWEAR |
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Mesh:
The Critical Choice
by Douglas Grigar, Master
Screen Printer
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(A version of this article originally appeared
in the March 2007 issue of PRINTWEAR.)
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What can we say about screen mesh? Quite
a bit actually. It is one of the aspects of screen printing that presents
itself as such a mystery. But with a review of the basic information
about mesh, it’s possible to get a better understanding about
how this critical issue affects the final print. The most important
question in this quest: How do we choose the best mesh features for
our use? There is a long list of factors about mesh and its properties
that all drastically affect its performance; this article can only give
justice to a few of the most important aspects. But let us at least
dig into these here.
Construction from a Historical
Perspective
Starting with the mesh threads themselves,
under a microscope, we can see the smooth-walled threads of the most
common choice of mesh – monofilament polyester – and see
how the rounded, slick thread walls can help us with cleaning and reclaiming.
The smoother surface simply will not hold emulsion like a roughened
surface will. Our use of low elongation (LE) monofilament polyester
mesh has long progressed past into the introductory stage. The now-mature
product takes far less effort and time to produce a tight tension screen
that is stable within just a few print/reclaim/retension cycles. And,
the advancement of mesh chemicals and construction that followed the
development of retensionable frames has further improved the performance
of mesh; a great benefit for all types of frames…not to mention
the benefit to users that comes with the superior mesh products now
available.
Counting Threads
The most common and at least partially
understood choice in mesh is the count of threads in a row occupying
an inch or “thread count.” While this thread count generally
dictates detail and use, it is only one choice in an array that affects
printing ink volume, available detail, and tension. The more threads
that span an area, the more threads will be available to hold bits of
emulsion that make up the stencil. This translates to more detail since
more of the area taken by the threads themselves means less ink can
pass onto the print. The reverse is that the fewer threads that span
an inch, the more room for ink to pass, but fewer threads will provide
less attachment points for detail in the stencil.
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 [Figure
1: While there once was an industry tendency toward un-dyed mesh simply
because of its lower cost, this trait is – thankfully, due to
dyed mesh’s superior performance characteristics – a thing
of the past.]
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Through Thick and Thin
Along with the thread count, the thickness
of each thread woven into the mesh dictates the open area of the mesh
where the ink will pass onto the substrate. There are several choices
for each thread count based on the actual thickness of the threads themselves
when considering mesh threads that are spaced in the same count per
inch. It’s often the case that manufacturers will offer several
choices of thread thickness for each thread count, whereas suppliers
will most often only carry one choice of each mesh.
Thinner threads are capable of holding
and helping print finer detail, but typically are not as strong, resistant
to abuse, or capable of holding as much tension without breaking. The
thicker the threads, the stronger the mesh…they are also more
resilient to abuse and more capable of higher tensions. The drawback
is that once threads become too thick, they restrict ink flow excessively,
making the images hard to print, and with much less detail. Heavy, thick
threads are notorious for difficult printing.
After a short stint in attempting super-high
tensions, most printers choose a more reasonable, mid-range thickness
of threads and tensions, compromising on strength and detail. This mid-range
mesh is what is most often available from the regional suppliers.
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[Figure 2: A basic consideration when matching mesh to art is in
knowing that the lower mesh counts tend to print at a higher volume
or thicker layer of ink. Additionally, the printer should understand
that higher mesh counts reproduce better detail, while the lower can
hold only basic detail.]
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The White Myth
White or un-dyed mesh threads allow
light to travel along the threads, causing symptoms of overexposure even
when a stencil is underexposed – a confusing and daunting problem,
especially for the new screen printer. To help control this problem, mesh
manufacturers produce mesh with all the same features as white mesh, but
in dyed or colored versions. Dyed mesh takes longer to expose, but the
increased detail and bridging of the photo stencil is often worth the
extra time needed to expose.
The old reason for choosing white
mesh where detail was not as important stems from the days when dyed mesh
was more expensive than white mesh…and the screen printing market
chose the cheaper option. Today’s prices on dyed mesh are often
only 5% (or fewer) more than white, but the tradition lingers. Outside
of quicker exposure times and a possible miniscule price difference,
white or un-dyed mesh has little or no advantage over the dyed mesh selections.
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[Figure 3: Once upon a time, there
were proponents of multi-filament mesh. Given its propensity to hang
onto not only ink but emulsion (during reclaiming) as well, it has long
since given way to monofilament for textile printing.]
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Playing Match-Maker
Matching the art to mesh (or choosing a mesh
that works best for a particular piece of artwork on a positive) is frustrating
for the initiate and often baffling for even the most experienced printer.
Choosing a mesh is more an exercise in logic and compromise, where the
more experience an artist or printer has, the more likely he is able to
make a quicker choice. A novice printer can apply some simple deductive
reasoning to make a reasonable choice based on need.
The first basic of matching mesh to art is
in knowing that the lower mesh counts tend to print a higher
volume or thicker layer of ink. The reverse is also true;
the higher the mesh counts, the thinner the layer of ink that will be
printed.
Second, understand that the higher mesh counts
reproduce better detail; while the lower mesh counts can hold only basic
art with little-to-no detail available for stencil reproduction.
Using the printing properties of the mesh
can help to make an art-to-mesh choice based on desired print results.
Matching then becomes a balancing act of detail versus ink deposit, and
the printer will have to choose, compromise, or possibly change the graphics
to fit the need.
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[Figure 4: This illustration demonstrates
the relative difference in thicker versus thinner threads in the same
mesh count. The effect of less available
detail from the smaller holes – produced by thicker threads –
is evident when evaluating the artwork (red) in the background.]
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Tools and Troubleshooting
One diagnostic tool available is the series of “art tool”
blocks on exposure calculators or commercial step tests. The tools contain
various areas with changing details designed to provide visual diagnostic
results for the mesh. A quality exposure calculator not only can be used
to find a correct exposure time, but can also be washed out completely
and the patterns used to print with various colors.
Similar art tools can be custom-made using graphics
programs to fit the particular need of the print shop. Users can produce
positives with graphics that will test the outside limits of detail-reproduction
available with each mesh.
Further, every mesh manufacturer will have detailed
information about its mesh, and there are endless articles available detailing
the exact properties of each.
Some other quick tips: Light colors printed on dark
garments do not have to be printed with low meshes, and specialized plastisol
inks can give surprisingly opaque results with great detail. Often, smearing
problems can be eradicated by higher mesh-count choices where large solid
areas may have initially indicated lower mesh counts. Also, excessively
high mesh counts can be replaced by lower counts with little cost in visual
detail by choosing slightly larger detail lines and dots, giving prints
far more opacity.
Most printers consider the balancing act of art-to-mesh
choice a challenge. But they are often rewarded by stretching the limits.
Never be afraid to change your procedures or stretch the limits…incremental
changes in art or mesh will often provide satisfying results. Research
any questions and prepare for re-evaluation. And remember, the best results
never come from trepidation.
*See “Matching Screen Frames…To the Need”
(also in Printwear, March 2007) for a continued discussion of
this topic.
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