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March 2007 issue of PRINTWEAR
Mesh: The Critical Choice

by Douglas Grigar, Master Screen Printer

Matching Screen Frames…To the Need

(A version of this article originally appeared in the March 2007 issue of PRINTWEAR.)

 

What can we say about screen mesh? Quite a bit actually. It is one of the aspects of screen printing that presents itself as such a mystery. But with a review of the basic information about mesh, it’s possible to get a better understanding about how this critical issue affects the final print. The most important question in this quest: How do we choose the best mesh features for our use? There is a long list of factors about mesh and its properties that all drastically affect its performance; this article can only give justice to a few of the most important aspects. But let us at least dig into these here.

Construction from a Historical Perspective

Starting with the mesh threads themselves, under a microscope, we can see the smooth-walled threads of the most common choice of mesh – monofilament polyester – and see how the rounded, slick thread walls can help us with cleaning and reclaiming. The smoother surface simply will not hold emulsion like a roughened surface will. Our use of low elongation (LE) monofilament polyester mesh has long progressed past into the introductory stage. The now-mature product takes far less effort and time to produce a tight tension screen that is stable within just a few print/reclaim/retension cycles. And, the advancement of mesh chemicals and construction that followed the development of retensionable frames has further improved the performance of mesh; a great benefit for all types of frames…not to mention the benefit to users that comes with the superior mesh products now available.

Counting Threads

The most common and at least partially understood choice in mesh is the count of threads in a row occupying an inch or “thread count.” While this thread count generally dictates detail and use, it is only one choice in an array that affects printing ink volume, available detail, and tension. The more threads that span an area, the more threads will be available to hold bits of emulsion that make up the stencil. This translates to more detail since more of the area taken by the threads themselves means less ink can pass onto the print. The reverse is that the fewer threads that span an inch, the more room for ink to pass, but fewer threads will provide less attachment points for detail in the stencil.

mesh, dye, thread
[Figure 1: While there once was an industry tendency toward un-dyed mesh simply because of its lower cost, this trait is – thankfully, due to dyed mesh’s superior performance characteristics – a thing of the past.]

 

Through Thick and Thin

Along with the thread count, the thickness of each thread woven into the mesh dictates the open area of the mesh where the ink will pass onto the substrate. There are several choices for each thread count based on the actual thickness of the threads themselves when considering mesh threads that are spaced in the same count per inch. It’s often the case that manufacturers will offer several choices of thread thickness for each thread count, whereas suppliers will most often only carry one choice of each mesh.

Thinner threads are capable of holding and helping print finer detail, but typically are not as strong, resistant to abuse, or capable of holding as much tension without breaking. The thicker the threads, the stronger the mesh…they are also more resilient to abuse and more capable of higher tensions. The drawback is that once threads become too thick, they restrict ink flow excessively, making the images hard to print, and with much less detail. Heavy, thick threads are notorious for difficult printing.

After a short stint in attempting super-high tensions, most printers choose a more reasonable, mid-range thickness of threads and tensions, compromising on strength and detail. This mid-range mesh is what is most often available from the regional suppliers.

mesh, dye, thread
[Figure 2: A basic consideration when matching mesh to art is in knowing that the lower mesh counts tend to print at a higher volume or thicker layer of ink. Additionally, the printer should understand that higher mesh counts reproduce better detail, while the lower can hold only basic detail.]

 

 

The White Myth

White or un-dyed mesh threads allow light to travel along the threads, causing symptoms of overexposure even when a stencil is underexposed – a confusing and daunting problem, especially for the new screen printer. To help control this problem, mesh manufacturers produce mesh with all the same features as white mesh, but in dyed or colored versions. Dyed mesh takes longer to expose, but the increased detail and bridging of the photo stencil is often worth the extra time needed to expose.

The old reason for choosing white mesh where detail was not as important stems from the days when dyed mesh was more expensive than white mesh…and the screen printing market chose the cheaper option. Today’s prices on dyed mesh are often only 5% (or fewer) more than white, but the tradition lingers. Outside of quicker exposure times and a possible miniscule price difference, white or un-dyed mesh has little or no advantage over the dyed mesh selections.

[Figure 3: Once upon a time, there were proponents of multi-filament mesh. Given its propensity to hang onto not only ink but emulsion (during reclaiming) as well, it has long since given way to monofilament for textile printing.]

 

mesh, dye, thread

Playing Match-Maker

Matching the art to mesh (or choosing a mesh that works best for a particular piece of artwork on a positive) is frustrating for the initiate and often baffling for even the most experienced printer. Choosing a mesh is more an exercise in logic and compromise, where the more experience an artist or printer has, the more likely he is able to make a quicker choice. A novice printer can apply some simple deductive reasoning to make a reasonable choice based on need.

The first basic of matching mesh to art is in knowing that the lower mesh counts tend to print a higher volume or thicker layer of ink. The reverse is also true; the higher the mesh counts, the thinner the layer of ink that will be printed.

Second, understand that the higher mesh counts reproduce better detail; while the lower mesh counts can hold only basic art with little-to-no detail available for stencil reproduction.

Using the printing properties of the mesh can help to make an art-to-mesh choice based on desired print results. Matching then becomes a balancing act of detail versus ink deposit, and the printer will have to choose, compromise, or possibly change the graphics to fit the need.

[Figure 4: This illustration demonstrates the relative difference in thicker versus thinner threads in the same mesh count. The effect of less mesh, dye, threadavailable detail from the smaller holes – produced by thicker threads – is evident when evaluating the artwork (red) in the background.]

 

 

Tools and Troubleshooting

One diagnostic tool available is the series of “art tool” blocks on exposure calculators or commercial step tests. The tools contain various areas with changing details designed to provide visual diagnostic results for the mesh. A quality exposure calculator not only can be used to find a correct exposure time, but can also be washed out completely and the patterns used to print with various colors.

Similar art tools can be custom-made using graphics programs to fit the particular need of the print shop. Users can produce positives with graphics that will test the outside limits of detail-reproduction available with each mesh.

Further, every mesh manufacturer will have detailed information about its mesh, and there are endless articles available detailing the exact properties of each.

Some other quick tips: Light colors printed on dark garments do not have to be printed with low meshes, and specialized plastisol inks can give surprisingly opaque results with great detail. Often, smearing problems can be eradicated by higher mesh-count choices where large solid areas may have initially indicated lower mesh counts. Also, excessively high mesh counts can be replaced by lower counts with little cost in visual detail by choosing slightly larger detail lines and dots, giving prints far more opacity.

Most printers consider the balancing act of art-to-mesh choice a challenge. But they are often rewarded by stretching the limits. Never be afraid to change your procedures or stretch the limits…incremental changes in art or mesh will often provide satisfying results. Research any questions and prepare for re-evaluation. And remember, the best results never come from trepidation.

*See “Matching Screen Frames…To the Need” (also in Printwear, March 2007) for a continued discussion of this topic.

 
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